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31 October 2006 - News Updates
India thinks big - TIME/ Fortune/ New York Times
Small loans aid big picture - Chicago Tribune
Visiting India, seeing the world - Seattle Times


India Thinks Big
23 October 2006, TIME magazine/ Forbes magazine (US)/ New York Times, By Simon Robinson, Jennifer Alsever and Alex Perry

 

When Ratan Tata, chairman of Indian conglomerate Tata Group, spoke to TIME earlier this year, he urged his countrymen to dream big. India, he said, should "be bold. It must look at the future ... It must look big, and look out." Last week he showed just what he meant: Tata Steel, part of his sprawling $22 billion empire, made an $8 billion bid for the Anglo-Dutch steel manufacturer Corus. The deal, accepted by Corus' board last Friday, creates the world's fifth-largest steel company and is the largest Indian takeover of a foreign company ever.

 

Cashed up thanks to rising profits at home, Indian firms are on a shopping spree and increasingly looking abroad. In the past year, the Tata Group has snapped up everything from American telecom firm Tyco Global to venerable British teamaker Tetley. Other Indian companies have bought foreign pharmaceutical firms, auto-parts makers and aluminum suppliers. Last week a consortium led by India's Videocon Industries agreed to buy South Korean appliance maker Daewoo Electronics for $700 million. "Indian companies have become competitive, and they realize that," says Gurcharan Das, former CEO of Procter & Gamble India and author of the best-selling India Unbound. "The level of corporate governance has improved, the capital markets are a lot more sophisticated. The rest of the world now trusts us."

 

Obstacles to doing business in India can be considerable, but they haven't stopped some multinational manufacturers from setting up shop in India. The companies that have done so include ABB, Honeywell and Siemens in electrical and electronic products; Cummins, DaimlerChrysler and Toyota Motor in auto components and engineering; and Degussa as well as Rohm and Hass in specialty chemicals. Moreover, it is no accident that these particular companies have chosen India. All operate in skill-intensive industries requiring advanced technical expertise--areas in which India is likely to become a primary sourcing and manufacturing base. In addition to auto components and assembly, they include fabricated metal products, machinery, pharmaceuticals and telecom equipment. Already, just over half of all offshore manufacturing by U.S. companies involves skill-intensive sectors, and that figure could rise to 70% by 2015.

 

Indeed, McKinsey research supports the view that the next wave of global outsourcing in manufacturing will take place in just these kinds of industries in places like India. With high-skill sectors accounting for almost 40% of the manufacturing output of India, it is in a good position to absorb some of that increase. For one thing, the country offers abundant engineering and technical talent: every year, it produces 400,000 graduate engineers, second only to China's 490,000. Companies might also be attracted to India by the increasing availability of reliable suppliers, the chance to escape unrelenting price pressures at home, and the size of the domestic market. LG, for example, plans to make handsets in India to take advantage of its rapidly growing demand for mobile telephones.

A growing number of Americans are taking that path, traveling to India for cosmetic, orthopedic and heart surgeries and other medical and dental treatments that cost 20 to 80 percent less than at home. In India, hospitals are sprouting that offer foreigners fine dining, marble bathrooms and manicured lawns. The hospitals promote the fact that they have credentialed physicians and a one-to-one ratio of nurses and patients. A coronary artery bypass, said GlobalChoice Healthcare, could cost $75,536 in the United States but $11,438 in India; a $50,000 spinal surgery here in US might be $9,000 in India, included a five-day hospital stay, airfare, hotel and sightseeing at spots like the Taj Mahal.

And yet by one important measure foreign direct investment India still lags Asia's other emerging giant, China. India is expected to receive only about 10% of the more than $80 billion that will pour into China this year. No matter. India's companies appear to have decided that if the world won't come to India, they'll go to the world.

 

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Small loans aid big picture
29 October 2006, Chicago Tribune

For Vikram Akula, banker to the poor, now comes the real test. For the last eight years, Akula, who holds a doctorate from the University of Chicago, has toiled in relative obscurity, running a company that gives out loans of $100 or less to villagers in his native India so they can buy a fishing net or a water buffalo. But now Akula and the microfinance-lending industry are in the headlines. In May, he was named to Time magazine's list of 100 most influential people, joining the ranks of Bill Gates, Bill Clinton and Bono. And this month Akula's inspiration, Bangladeshi economist Muhammad Yunus and the Grameen Bank he founded, won the Nobel Peace Prize for their pioneering effort to lift millions out of poverty.

All the attention, while gratifying to Akula and others involved, is likely to draw more investors and philanthropists to the microlending institutions. That will force the industry to become more efficient and transparent. Akula, the 37-year-old founder of SKS Microfinance Pvt. Ltd., is experimenting with providing loans on computer-chip-embedded smart cards, which its loan officers use to record repayments electronically.

Akula's motives are not entirely altruistic. Unlike many microlending organizations, SKS is a for-profit institution that promises returns to investors. He converted SKS from a not-for-profit organization this year because he wanted better access to commercial capital, said Akula, a one-time McKinsey & Co. consultant. In March, SKS raised $3.2 million from private investors, which he leveraged to attract capital from some of the world's largest banks.

Chicago law firm Mayer, Brown, Rowe & Maw provided free legal services to SKS to help the company raise private funds. Before speaking at the firm's pro-bono luncheon this month, Akula shared his thoughts on the microfinance industry. An edited transcript follows.

Q. How many clients does SKS have?
A. We have given loans to 350,000 women in 11 states in India. We have provided about $100 million in loans over the last eight years. The average loan is $85. We charge 25 percent. While that seems high, informal money lenders in India charge rates of 36 percent to 100 percent. It is the lowest possible interest we can charge to cover our costs and provide a return to our investors.

Q. Why do you only lend to women?
A. Social-development studies have demonstrated that women are much more likely to reinvest income into the household for the benefit of the entire family. We have found that one-third of the money goes into livestock, one-third goes into trading vegetables and other grocery staples, and one-third is for creating businesses in basket weaving and mat-making.

Q. Why is the son of a physician who grew up in upstate New York so interested in helping the poor?
A. I remember visiting India as a child and was so overwhelmed by the poverty. We were attending a family wedding in Hyderbad, and I saw local boys scraping off food from dinner plates. That memory has stuck with me.

Q. What did you study at the University of Chicago?
A. My dissertation focused on the impact of microfinance. I had spent three years at microfinance institutions in India that were part of non-governmental organizations. I saw the problem of raising capital. I also thought the programs were well-intentioned but poorly managed. There was no way these programs could scale up to help the millions that need help.

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Visiting India, seeing the world – An “Out of India” series
17/ 22/ 24/ 26/ 28/ 29/ 31 October 2006, Seattle Times, By Carol Pucci

"People who haven't been to India, truly haven't seen the world," says Natasha Jaksich, of Renton, a veteran traveler to India. As a first-time visitor to India, I agree. India is filled with mysteries that baffle the Western mind.

 

Where else in the world can you wake up to the sounds of the Muslim call to prayer, chanting from a Hindu temple, church bells and birds singing — all at the same time? Where else will you find women sitting on their porches sorting rice, shopping in the markets or walking to the public tap to fill metal containers with water while dressed in gorgeous saris in the brightest blues, greens, yellows and oranges you can imagine? Where else could you find yourself driving in a three-wheeled open-air taxi in four lanes of traffic logged with cars, cows, camels, elephants, motorcycles and rickshaws; riding a camel into the desert; walking barefoot on the marble floors of the Taj Mahal; floating along tropical lagoons in a houseboat and hiking in the mountains, all in the same three-week trip?

 

As fascinated as I was by India, India is hard travel — hard on the body, hard on the psyche. Many times, India tested my patience, but what travel experiences worth having don't? India is full of myths when it comes to travel. Guidebook authors tend to romanticize its beauty. Nonfiction authors go for the shock value, describing the worst of what you're likely to encounter in one of the world's poorest countries. The truth is that most travelers probably discover an India that's neither overwhelming beautiful nor horrifically sad. I expected to be constantly fending off beggars, but found that I was more bothered by aggressive shopkeepers and touts selling their "guide" services than by the few people who rapped on the car window or tugged at my arm asking for money.

 

I didn't have to pay $250 a night or stay in five-star hotels to find comfortable rooms that met Western standards for cleanliness. The family-owned hotels and home stays I booked were immaculate, and my $73 a night hotel in Mumbai was as good as or better than anything I've found anywhere.

 

Heritage hotels are palatial residences of the maharajas, who were the Indian royal rulers who presided over 600 princely states prior to India's independence from Great Britain in 1947. They were allowed to retain their titles and official residences, which the government helped them maintain. Some are still private homes. Others have been have been turned into Heritage hotels where tourists, willing to part with princely sums, can live like kings for a few nights. For example, travelers give mostly high marks to the 38-room Jai Mahal, a 16th-century palace and gardens in the "Pink City" of Jaipur.

 

In Jaipur, when we happened upon a group of men making milk and flour dumplings over a coal fire. "You try," one of them says, handing us two sweet dumplings the size of small snowballs. "How much?" I ask. When he answers, I know we've finally managed to veer off the tourist path. "No money!" he insists. "No money!"

 

Every hotel in Jaisalmer sets up camel safaris for its guests for anywhere from $20 to $35 a person, including food and bottled water. The riding time is short — a couple of hours in the afternoon, a couple the next morning. Two hours on a camel is enough, most people find, but some like it so much they go back for two or three days and the chance to go into more remote parts of the desert.

A trip through the Kerala

I wouldn't have traded the amazing evening I spent at a family-home stay my last night in Kerala. The food was so good, and the local villagers so friendly, we could have stayed for several days. But we had only one night as a home stay, and after breakfast and a walk the next morning, Sam, the housekeeper knocked on our door. "Your houseboat has arrived."

 

I'm not sure what I was expecting, but certainly not the 90-foot-long floating hotel that pulled up to the dock. The boat was built from bamboo and coconut wood, coconut palms and had floors of polished teak. The bedrooms — two of them — were like staterooms on a cruise ship, each furnished with twin beds, a Western-style bathroom with a shower, a desk, wardrobe and ceiling fan. At the front of the boat was a dining table and comfortable chairs in the shade for relaxing. In the back was the galley. Storage batteries provided electricity, and there was a holding tank for running water.

 

An overnight trip through the backwaters on a houseboat is the highlight of a visit to Central Kerala. Each boat comes staffed with a captain, an assistant and a cook, and from noon one day to after breakfast the next, you've got their full attention. The houseboats are reworked kettuvallams — rice and spice barges once used to transport harvests from the backwater islands to the mainland. Today, about 400 houseboats, mostly new ones, travel the waterways around a town called Alleppey, about an hour's drive from Fort Kochi.

 

Gliding through the palm-fringed lagoon, past stucco houses and men paddling wooden canoes, we felt a cool breeze and stopped sweating for the first time in days. We were cruising idly again past kids walking home from school and parents giving their babies evening baths. Most of the villagers here are rice farmers, or work in town and commute to the mainland on public ferries. There are no roads or cars, only neatly swept paths of red clay that skirt the main waterway on two sides, and Venice-like canals connected by little foot bridges. Everyone gets around by walking or bicycling.

 

We docked for the night around 5:30 p.m., ate dinner, drank more beer, talked and went to bed around 8 p.m. There's not much to do on a houseboat, but that's the point. This was the most relaxing time we had spent in India so far, and this being India, it wasn't dull.

 

Ten miles up the road and another 1,500 feet higher are Kerala's tea estates — around 30 in all — and Munnar, an alpine town filled with shops selling spices, cashews and flower oils. The scenery is dramatic, with manicured tea plantations that look like giant green carpet squares.

 

Before I left, I asked myself if I'd come home wondering what took me so long to get to India, or if I'd feel as through I'd never want to go back. Do I wonder now what took me so long? Yes, and if you've been thinking about going, don't hesitate. Would I go back? Absolutely.

 

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